With a sense of wabi-sabi, I dwell in the morning and evening, the winds and soil of Fuxian Lake, turning the escape from the summer heat into a form of practice.
In the Dianchi Lake, to escape the summer is not an act of flight, but a return to one's place. To reside here long-term requires letting go of the tourist's obsession, allowing the body to gradually adapt to the rhythm of the lake's and the sky's breath. At six in the morning, the lake surface is not yet fully awake, the water color a gray-blue, like untampered ink. It is then most fitting to stand barefoot on the cobblestones, letting dew soak through the soles of one's feet, watching the fisherman haul in his nets, listening to the dull sound of the paddle scraping through the mist—the ancient sound of wood rubbing against water, unadorned.
The dwelling should be a rammed earth courtyard built by the lake, with walls retaining their rough texture, the sunlight shining upon them to reveal warm brown layers, as if the patina of time had been left behind. Inside, the furnishings are minimalist, an old wooden table, a few rustic pottery pieces, and wild reeds from the back mountain in a vase. In the afternoon, sunlight slants through bamboo blinds, casting fine and mottled shadows on the floor. As the wind passes, the shadows sway like ripples on the water, turning the entire room into a part of the lake. The wooden floor releases a faint scent of resin with the passage of day and night, blending with the moist aroma of the moss outside. It is indistinguishable which scent reaches the nose first.
Dining should follow the local slow pace. Every day, order a basket of vegetables with soil from a farm, simmer a pot of lotus root soup over a rustic stove with firewood, the lotus roots dug from the lakeside, their fibrous texture intertwining like the aquatic plants at the bottom of the lake. What is most exquisite is drinking a bowl of clear Jiangjiang Copper Pot Fish at dusk, sitting on the corridor. The fish is tender enough to be nearly chewless, with only salt and a few slices of ginger in the soup, yet the flavor is as profound and expansive as the lake itself. The warmth lingering on the rim of the bowl brushes against the cheeks, meeting the cool breeze from the lake, creating a subtle temperature difference that lingers in memory.
After dark, all sounds are hushed, save for the gentle lapping of the lake against the shore, like an endless cradle song. The bedroom window faces the lake center, moonlight streaming in, condensing into a thin layer of frost on the plain cotton and linen bedding. Without the need for a light, one can fall asleep by moonlight, dreaming of the creases of water ripples. Now you finally understand that the art of long-term living in the Dianchi Lake is not to possess the scenery, but to become an uncarved stone in the scenery, slowly weathering and clarifying between the rising and setting of the sun and moon.
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Pugui Mountain Retreat — wabi-sabi living at 22°C.
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